Fishing the Scottish Borders

Despite popular trends, there really is no need to travel to Alaska, Norway, Russia or Iceland to fish for salmon. Indeed, if you want to experience the best standards of hospitality and fish using traditional methods, the famous rivers of Scotland offer a much better (and less expensive) option.

That is why, not so many years ago, I found myself heading towards the romantic Border country and the incomparable River Tweed. With hopes high that the Autumn run might have commenced, I decided to fish a beat on the upper river where costs are low but, given the right conditions and a modicum of anglers' luck, excitement can run high.

The Scottish Borders is, of course, well known for the grandeur of the scenery and the superb variety of activities which are available. For this reason, it is the perfect place to take a non-fishing partner. Mill trails, golf courses, beautiful walks and an incredible wealth of historic buildings will keep him or her fully occupied while you are on the water.

The Tweed itself is one of Britain's largest river systems, flowing from the Lanark hills all the way to meet the sea at Berwick in Northumberland. Where it forms the border between Scotland and England, the Scottish laws prevail on both banks and this has helped greatly to preserve the salmon stocks and ensure sporting fishing. It is the lower beats which are most famous - the Junction Pool at Kelso or the Tillmouth waters farther down regularly produce double figure catches of double figure salmon in a single day.

Those beats are, however, solidly booked from year to year and are, therefore, of only passing interest to the itinerant angler. Travel up river a bit and the picture changes remarkably. From Peebles down to Melrose there are countless superb stretches of water which are prettier and much more interesting than the big pools of the lower river. Tickets are readily available throughout the season and the prices won't break the bank. Because they are of manageable width, those upper beats are also much more suitable for the fisher who, like me, is not a seasoned expert with the muscles to wield an 18-foot rod.

On the Upper Tweed, perfectly normal salmon fly tackle is absolutely adequate; my own choice is a 15-foot graphite rod, an inexpensive reel and a couple of mill-end lines. A floating line is preferred when the water is warm and low while a sinker comes into its own later in the season. Standard patterns of fly are fine, despite the fact that every local angler and ghillie will have his own favourites.

All along the Tweed there are many hotels and guest houses to suit all tastes and budgets. For my trip I stayed at the Tweed Valley Hotel in Walkerburn in order to renew an acquaintance with mine host Charles Miller. Almost twenty years ago, when my financial and family commitments would not permit a sporting holiday, I arranged a barter with Charles. In return for a few of my paintings, he provided some free sport! It did my ego no end of good to discover that my paintings of ducks and geese were still adorning the hotel walls!

Like many hostelries in the area, the Tweed Valley Hotel has its own private fishing, employs a ghillie to advise guests and can even organise tackle and instruction for beginners. The standard of hospitality throughout the Borders is exceptional and, best of all, they really do understand and cater for the needs of fishermen and women.

Of course, catching fish is not the only attraction of a fishing holiday. While it is immensely satisfying to get a salmon on to the bank, the enjoyment of being at one with nature is a big part of the thrill. In this respect the rolling hills and green pastures of the upper Tweed are exceptional. Not that the tranquillity always remains unspoiled!! One of the highlights of my visit was to gloat when another angler - an expert from the staff of Trout & Salmon magazine, no less - lost his footing and fell into the water. I'll not repeat his exact words here, but believe me, some journalists have a very rich vocabulary.

Next time you are thinking about a fishing holiday in pursuit of the mighty salmon, you need venture no farther than the Scottish Borders and the famous River Tweed. I can thoroughly recommend it.