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The acquisition of a shotgun is likely to the first item on a
would-be wildfowler's shopping list but it is not the only
purchase which will be required before he sets out to do business
with the duck and geese of the estuary. A full kit can be built
up over a number of seasons with priority being given to those
items of clothing and equipment which positively contribute to
comfort, concealment and safety. Many experienced fowlers find
that all the basic necessities occupy the boots of their cars
throughout the open season while their garages are cluttered with
piles of discarded impedimenta. Accessories such as
battery-operated illuminated fore-sights or electric
welly-warmers certainly do not fall into the category of
essential tackle.
CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR
Although the professional fowlers and gentleman punters of bygone
times endured terrible privations in their pursuit of duck and
geese, there is no need for the modern longshore gunner to suffer
the same discomforts. The perpetual wildness of the sport lies in
the solitude of the marshes, the storm winds of winter and the
very instincts of the fowl themselves. It is certainly no
betrayal of the wildfowler's art to seek to remain warm and dry
below the sea wall. The sport can take place in very wet, windy
weather and, being a midwinter pursuit, the keen fowler will also
find himself out in conditions of sharp frost. Fortunately our
climate is such that heavy rain and extremely low temperatures
rarely occur simultaneously so it is normally necessary to worry
about only one problem at a time.
Good shooting depends upon the sportsman being able to move in an
unrestricted manner and any garment which impedes his swing will
have disastrous effects upon his standard of gun handling.
Similarly, any article of clothing which fails to aid concealment
will seriously reduce his chances of success. When choosing
clothing, therefore, drab colours should be selected and
attention paid to obtaining apparel which allows ample freedom of
movement. Top quality shooting clothes do tend to be expensive
but, as the wildfowler is not particularly concerned with matters
of sartorial elegance, a visit to a government-surplus store may
save some hard-earned cash.
Headwear
It is rare to meet a wildfowler who does not wear some form of
hat when shooting and there are a number of very good reasons why
this is so. Protecting the head from rain is an obvious purpose
but it is not always appreciated that, in very cold weather, a
great deal of body heat can be lost from the top of an uncovered
cranium. Those of us whose natural thatch is wearing a bit thin
will clearly suffer most in this respect although no-one should
underestimate the degree to which headwear will contribute to
preventing chilling in extreme conditions. Above all else,
however, a hat with a good wide peak is essential to cast a
shadow over the fowler's face. Especially at dawn and dusk, the
white orb of a human physiog stands out like a glowing beacon
amid the drab colours of the marsh and, if unshaded, will flash
an early warning to the sharp eyes of approaching fowl.
Many diverse designs of hattery can be seen on the shore but not
all are entirely suitable. The knitted balaclava helmet, for
example, is supremely warm when an icy wind blasts from the north
but it suffers from the disadvantage of restricting the fowler's
sense of hearing and, in any case, is hardly waterproof.
Traditional fore-and-aft tweed deerstalkers are worn by some
sportsmen despite the tendency of the rear peak to catch on the
coat collar when the wildfowler takes an overhead shot. Just as
he is about to pull the trigger, his hat is inevitably pushed
forward over his eyes. Tweed caps and soft hats each have their
adherents and a camouflaged forage cap is useful in dry weather.
In very rainy conditions the ultimate weather protection is given
by a hat manufactured from the same waxed cotton material as is
popular for shooting coats. Unfortunately, no commercial supplier
of sporting clothing seems to have accepted the challenge of
producing the ideal wildfowler's head-dress. Were such a hat to
exist, it would be fashioned out of waterproof material dyed a
matt mixture of brown, green and straw colour. A large front peak
would be provided to shade the wearer's face and keep rain out of
his eyes while a long soft flap at the rear would overlap his
collar to stop water running down his neck. To prevent the hat
being blown away by a sudden gust of wind or falling off when
taking a high shot, a chinstrap might be fitted and the design
would incorporate a face veil which could be tucked away inside
the hat when not in use.
Outer Garments
In the mild evenings of early autumn, when waiting in the reed
fringes of an estuary for a flight of native mallard, a
camouflaged cotton jacket will provide all of the protection
which is necessary. At such times there is little to be gained
from overdressing but, as winter deepens and the wildfowler's
thoughts turn to wigeon whistling under a frosty moon or grey
geese battling against gale-driven sleet, a more substantial
outfit will be required. There is a wide range of excellent
shooting coats on the market and, as a well-made garment will
last for many years, it is worth choosing with care. Firm
favourites with many fowlers are the waxed cotton thornproof
jackets bearing labels such as Barbour, Belstaff or Keeperwear.
Some of the earlier synthetic fabrics suffered from a number of
problems but more recent introductions like Goretex and Perflex
are now beginning to challenge waxed cotton for supremacy in the
field, albeit at a fairly high price.
When selecting a coat, the sportsman must decide upon the
features he wishes to obtain and then shop around for a garment
which meets his requirements. To some extent price will determine
the weight of the fabric from which the jacket is tailored.
Lightweight examples are fine for carrying in mild weather as
insurance against an unexpected shower of rain but the serious
fowler will look for a standard or heavyweight cloth to meet his
needs on the foreshore. A fabric which is dry to the touch should
be chosen and it should be supple when worn. There is nothing
worse than a coat which is stiff or which restricts movement in
any other way. In addition to the traditional browns and olives,
waxproofs are now available in camouflage patterns but, so far,
no manufacturer appears to have produced a waxed cotton or
synthetic fibre shooting jacket in a light straw colour. For the
man who wants to blend into the faded vegetation of a winter
marsh, a pale colour would be perfect. For comfort in foul
weather several points require attention. The lining should be
warm without being unduly bulky and, as the longshore gunner is
likely to alternate long spells of waiting with some strenuous
walking, the coat should also be well ventilated.
After questions of fabric and fit, some smaller details are
important. The collar should fasten snugly and storm cuffs will
not only keep out the wind but also stop rainwater running up the
fowler's arms every time he puts his gun to his shoulder. The
standard provision of two large bellows pockets, two lined
handwarmer pouches and a breast pocket will suit most
requirements but check that they are waterproof and give ease of
access. The main pockets should be large enough to carry
cartridges, dog lead, whistle and any other odds and ends.
Handwarming pockets are particularly welcome in frosty conditions
but the entrances must be sufficiently wide to enable the hands
to be withdrawn quickly when the chance of a shot presents
itself. It is probable that more shooting coats are discarded
because the zip fastener has broken than for any other reason. It
therefore pays to choose one with a good heavy duty zip,
preferably with the facility for opening from either top or
bottom.
Waterproof overtrousers are available in the same range of
materials as jackets but, for general wildfowling use, they must
be sufficiently pliable to tuck inside thigh waders and wide
enough to fit over wellington boots. A design which has side
slits to allow access to the pockets of the trousers worn under
them is desirable. After having examined every jacket and pair of
overtrousers in the shop and finally made a selection, there are
a number of rules to be followed to maximise the working life of
the garments. At the conclusion of each outing any mud should be
sponged off and they should be hung to dry in a warm. well
ventilated room. Nothing will more rapidly cause them to lose
their smart appearance and weatherproof qualities than being left
bundled in the back of a car after a wet day on the marsh. Any
tears should be mended immediately using one of the proprietary
repair kits and, after one or two seasons of hard use, waxproof
garments should be treated with the manufacturer's waterproofing
compound, carefully following the instructions on the tin or
aerosol. When performing this operation, better results will be
obtained if the fabric is warmed by using a hair dryer.
There is an old fowlers' trick of dipping one's hands in the
water at the start of each outing and then allowing them to dry
in the wind. Such treatment does effectively inure fingers to the
bitterest conditions but courage is required to give the ploy a
fair trial. In the absence of such strength of character, gloves
may be worn on the marsh in winter. Fingerless mitts are
available, as are specialised shooting gloves which have a
fold-back trigger finger. Users of single trigger guns will find
that they can shoot successfully in ordinary gloves provided that
they are not too bulky. The type sold for golfers, with thermal
backs and very fine leather palms are ideal. When choosing any
pair of gloves it is vital to ensure that they have long cuffs as
the arteries which run close to the surface of the wrist allow
heat to be lost from this region almost as quickly as from the
top of the head.
(Author's Addendum: Since
"Fowler in the Wild" was published, I have made many visits to the USA
and Canada - see http://www.wildfowling.co.uk
for details - and have become a firm convert to camouflage waterfowl clothing, especially
the Mossy Oak "Shadow Grass" pattern)
Underwear
When the temperature plummets to far below freezing point it is
tempting simply to don a couple of extra sweaters to compensate.
In consequence, many fowlers have worried about their declining
standard of marksmanship when, in reality, all that was wrong was
too many layers of clothing beneath their shooting coat. Two
thick pullovers and a quilted waistcoat have the same effect as
adding almost half an inch to the length of the gunstock.
Fortunately there is now available a range of excellent thermal
underwear which can replace all those layers of wool. To splash
out the type of vest and longjohns which was developed for Arctic
explorers and Himalayan mountaineers is a sound investment and a
pair of stockings in the same material will keep the feet cosy on
the coldest morning. It is also worth noting that a woollen or
cotton shirt will be warmer than one of nylon and, similarly, a
jersey will provide more effective heat insulation if it is
knitted from natural, rather than synthetic, fibre. Around the
neck, a soft towelling cravat serves the dual purpose of reducing
heat loss and absorbing rainwater.
Footwear
Many coastal wildfowlers wear thigh boots or fishing waders as a
matter of course and there are undoubtedly occasions when they
are useful. When crawling or kneeling in mud, for instance,
waders will be invaluable. A pair with stout cleated soles should
be chosen and they should be substantial enough to require no
straps of buckles. Some very flimsy fishing waders are sold which
have to be attached to a belt but footwear of that type could
prove very dangerous on the marsh. The fowler plowtering through
soft mud must be able to extricate himself from his boots quickly
in an emergency. In most wildfowling situations ordinary
wellington boots are probably a more suitable choice and, if worn
in conjunction with waterproof overtrousers, will permit greater
freedom of movement than waders.
EQUIPMENT
The general rule in relation to equipment is that as little as
possible should be carried on to the marsh. There are a number of
small items, directly related to safety, which will be mentioned
in the next section. Those apart, it is wise to take on a fowling
expedition only the few pieces of equipment which may be required
in the particular situation.
Seats
Primarily an aid to comfort while waiting for a flight, a seat of
some description is worth thinking about. On private or club
foreshore, where permanent hides have been built, plastic milk
crates are ideal but they are not convenient for carrying around
the public saltings. Where sufficiently high natural cover exists
or a temporary hide is to be erected, a lightweight folding stool
of the type favoured by anglers is a useful accessory. Any bright
metal parts should be camouflaged with matt paint and a sling
might be fitted to enable it to be carried easily. When
creekcrawling or where cover is sparse, a flat seat constructed
from a pair of plywood squares and a shallow softwood frame will
serve to raise the fowler's hindquarters a couple of inches above
the wet mud and avoid uncomfortable rising damp.
Camouflage Netting
In certain situations it is helpful to be able to build a hide on
the marsh and, if no suitable flotsam litters the shore, the
common expedient is to carry two or three light alloy poles and a
camouflage net. Careful thought requires to be given to colour as
a green and brown net will be worse than useless when erected in
a straw coloured January landscape. A man-made hide, whether of
permanent or temporary nature, will be less obvious if
constructed against some natural feature such as a large chunk of
driftwood, an eroded banking or a stony scree. Irrespective of
the materials from which the hide is built, the cardinal rule is
that it must not be silhouetted against the skyline when seen
from the direction from which the fowl will approach. Another
important consideration is that the hide netting and poles must
be sufficiently light to carry and easy to erect quickly in the
darkness or when a gale is blowing. Leafscreen netting is
particularly suitable as it folds up into a very small pack and
is virtually tangleproof.
Decoys and Calls
Despite the best efforts of the gunshop salesman, the novice
wildfowler should think twice before parting with his cash in
exchange for a flotilla of plastic duck or geese. At morning and
evening flight the fowl know where they are going and have no
thoughts of gatecrashing another party. Only when tide flighting
can a degree of advantage be gained from a set of judiciously
placed decoys. When an incoming tide in the middle of the day is
causing resting duck to move their position on the shore, then a
battery of surrogate fowl placed on a carefully selected flash or
pool might persuade them to drop in for a visit.
The quality of commercially produced decoys has improved a little
in recent years and most now have the matt finish which is so
essential. Any shiny examples should be avoided like the plague
and, if possible, preference should be given to those which are a
little larger than life size. Decoys must adopt a natural
"swim" when placed in the water, movement and aspect
being much more important than accurate colouring. The type with
a weighted keel seem superior in this respect. In general terms,
the greater the number of decoys which are employed, the more
effective they will be. Avoid, however, a very regular pattern of
rubber mallard in neatly regimented rows. While it is true that
duck usually sit facing the wind, they rarely do so in tidy
lines.
Related to the subject of decoying is that of calling wild duck
and geese. Some professional guides have developed mouth-calling
to the state of an art but most fowlers have to rely upon the
wooden call whistles which have been tuned to imitate the
quacking or honking of a particular species. Such accessories are
virtually useless unless the wildfowler has carefully studied the
natural sounds of his quarry. The laws of chance would suggest
that the likelihood of producing the correct note is very small
and it is more probable that a warning or alarm call will be
emitted. There are now some excellent instructional audio
cassettes available to assist the novice in this respect.
Bags
Whatever type of bag is carried, it must be sufficiently
capacious to carry all the fowler's equipment and still have
space for a duck or two. An ordinary game bag is likely to be too
small for anything other than a quick sortie to the shore and
many wildfowlers have discovered that discarded postmen's
satchels provide a useful alternative. Although not favoured
greatly by the fowling fraternity, there is much to commend a
frame rucksack as both hands are left completely free and the
even distribution of weight across the back means that balance is
more easily maintained when squelching through mud and crossing
gutters. Decoys and poles can be hung from the
"D"-rings of a rucksack and it can be used as a stool
in suitable circumstances.
Field Glasses
A good pair of binoculars is invaluable for surveying the marsh
in daylight but they should not be left in the car when the time
comes to set off across the sea wall. Wildfowling involves
sitting quietly for many hours waiting for the infrequent chance
of a shot. That time can be spent pleasantly and profitably if
field glasses are used to examine the multitude of waders and
other small birds which inhabit the saltings. There is no merit
in choosing binoculars which are of greater power than 8x30 and,
although expensive, a pair which is armoured with waterproof
rubber will last for a very long time.
SAFETY ON THE MARSH
Gun Handling
At close range a shotgun is a particularly lethal weapon but that
is not to say that the effect of a single pellet at over 100
yards should be ignored. Shotguns are designed to kill and every
gunmaking refinement and improvement in cartridge performance is
intended to increase that killing efficiency. It is of paramount
importance that each person who handles a gun appreciates that he
is holding a dangerous weapon. Gun safety is not only a case of
being able to recite the rules; it is an attitude of mind coupled
with the constant practice of applied knowledge.
Every year the toll of casualties from shotgun accidents
emphasises the need for complete vigilance when handling firearms
of any description. A constantly recurring feature is the number
of mishaps which involve guns which were "thought to be
unloaded"; a state of affairs which simply should not exist
if the correct drill is followed at all times. The responsibility
for gun safety must override all other considerations in the
shooting field, even to the exclusion of normal etiquettes and
niceties. On a formal covert shoot any transgression may result
in the guilty party being sent home with the utmost despatch and
with no right of appeal. Many young Shots have had the principles
of safe practice indelibly engraved on their minds by the shame
accruing from such a punishment. In wildfowling it may be that
such sanctions are not always available but this factor does not
relieve the fowler of the duty to draw any dangerous conduct to
the attention of the miscreant.
For the sake of the peace of mind of your shooting companions it
is important not only to be safe but to be seen to be safe. Make
every safety check a deliberate, even exaggerated, action so that
no-one is in any doubt about your conduct. The following basic
rules of safety should be rigorously observed at all times:
1. Never point a gun at any person at any time in any
circumstances. Even if you are certain that a gun is
unloaded, do not point it at anything which you do not
wish to shoot.
2. Treat every gun with the respect due to a loaded gun.
3. Whenever possible, carry your gun in its sleeve. When in
the field, carry it unloaded with the breech open until
you are in a position to expect a shot.
4. Always unload your gun before crossing any fence, wall,
ditch or other obstruction.
5. Check that your gun is unloaded before handing it to
anyone, before putting it into a vehicle and before
entering a house or other building.
6. Always walk with the muzzles pointing at the ground or
high into the air. Grip the gun so that you can control
the direction of the barrels should you stumble or fall.
7. Never shoot where you cannot see. Long grass, reed beds
and bushes may conceal other people. Always know where
other fowlers are hidden and do not swing through their
positions.
8. Before loading, ensure that your barrels are free from
obstruction. Mud or snow can block barrels and may cause a
fatal burst.
9. Never use a cartridge which may generate a pressure higher
than that for which your gun is proof-marked.
10. Keep all guns and ammunition safely locked away from
children or inexperienced persons. Never leave a gun in
sight in a car.
Mud, Weather and Tides
Theoretically, it should be possible to avoid all risks arising
from the simple use of guns. In wildfowling, on the other hand,
there are a number of hazards which arise from the wild places in
which the fowler pursues his quarry. The most vivid fowling
memories seem to involve gale force winds and stormy seas
because, quite simply, those are the conditions which produce the
most successful and exciting sport. Couple foul weather with
difficult terrain, oozing mud and racing tides and we are faced
with an environment which presents a multitude of hazards to the
unwary wildfowler. Conditions on the estuary can change suddenly
and dramatically, each locality having its own particular quirks.
This is one reason why newcomers to fowling should spend time
during the close season reconnoitring their local marshes so that
they might become familiar with every gully and creek. Experience
cannot be built up overnight and each wildfowler must tread with
the utmost caution until he has come to terms with his chosen
fowling grounds.
The greatest danger comes from the threat of being cut off by the
tide while far out on the marsh. Especially on expansive saltings
there is a tendency to underestimate the speed of the tidal flow
and it must constantly be borne in mind that the flatter the
marsh, the greater the race of incoming water. Tide tables are
therefore an essential part of any coastal fowler's equipment.
What is equally important is to appreciate the conditions which
will render the printed tables inaccurate. A gale from offshore
can bring the time of high tide forward by a full hour and may
raise its height by several feet. Wildfowlers must not only have
their safe route back to firm ground charted in advance of an
expedition but must also be prepared to take that route earlier
than planned in the event of any abnormal circumstances arising.
Retreating in front of a freak tide is an alarming experience at
the best of times but the situation is ten times worse when one
is faced with a journey over glutinous mud. Plowtering through
estuarine mud is an art in itself and many a novice has lost a
boot (or worse) before finally acquiring the requisite skills.
The secret is to develop a rhythm and keep up a deliberate
momentum. Slide your feet forward rather than taking high steps
and, if your feet do become stuck in the ooze, throw yourself on
to your back rather than allowing yourself to tumble forwards.
Fog is yet another hazard which faces the longshore gunner.
Suddenly, in otherwise pleasant weather, a rolling grey mantle
may completely engulf the marsh in a matter of minutes. It is
really quite frightening to have visibility reduced to a few
yards on a featureless shore. In addition to reconnaissance and
planning, equipment can play a vital part in promoting safety on
the saltings. A compass is undoubtedly an essential part of the
wildfowler's kit but it is of limited value unless one knows how
to use it. The cardinal rule, especially on a strange estuary, is
to take frequent compass bearings when walking out to the edge of
the marsh. If a thick swirling fog suddenly descends, the
magnetic needle will give no useful information if the fowler
does not know the direction in which he must travel to reach the
sanctuary of the sea wall.
Another useful tip is always to carry a wading stick. This need
not add much weight to the fowler's load and a light aluminium or
alloy pole, painted matt brown, will enable mud or water to be
tested for depth without risking a bootful of icy brine. A stick
also aids balance when traversing soft ground and, if you have
the flight of a lifetime, a dozen duck can be tied to it for the
return journey over the marsh.
Next to the risk of drowning, exposure is probably the greatest
danger facing the coastal wildfowler. The chilling effect of low
temperatures is greatly increased by strong winds and a man who
has received a soaking will risk serious harm if he is forced to
remain out in the open for even a few hours. Adequate clothing is
clearly the best protection in those circumstances and that is
one reason for not skimping when buying waterproof garments and
thermal underwear. If a fowler does have to spend a long time in
adverse conditions waiting for a tide to turn or for thick fog to
lift, his comfort and his health will be greatly helped by a
thermos flask of hot tea or coffee. It is tempting to travel as
light as is possible but a hot drink could be a lifesaver on the
estuary and it is well worth including a flask in the bag as a
matter of course.
An immediate concern of the fowler who gets cut off by the tide
or lost in fog is to attempt to summon help. Traditionally the
accepted alarm signal was to fire three shots in quick succession
but shooting pressure on some coasts is now so great that such a
signal would go unnoticed on a busy Saturday morning.
Nevertheless, a situation of potential disaster is no time to
conserve cartridges so fire them off anyway and hope that someone
takes notice. In any case, if you have to resort to swimming
across a flooded creek, you will not be assisted by the weight of
a full box of shells. In clear weather it may be possible to
attract attention by tying a white cloth to the wading stick and
using it as a flag while, if fog descends in fairly still
conditions, a referee's whistle may be heard over a long
distance. Finally, before departing for a sojourn below the sea
wall, make sure that someone knows where you are going and when
you intend to return. Then, if you do get into difficulties, the
coastguard can be alerted and will know where to start looking.
This file is an
extract from "Fowler in the Wild" by Eric Begbie. It
may be reproduced, in whole or in part, by magazines or other
publications with the prior permission of the author.
